The Iwokrama Forest is amazingly huge -- nearly a million acres in the green heart of Guyana. From the top of Turtle Mountain, a 984-foot mountain in the park, we gazed out across a sea of treetops which stretched to the horizon. The range of greens was phenomenal: hunter, olive, lime, chartreuse, kelly, emerald, malachite, teal and a thousand other subtle shades, with the pink and yellow splashes of scattered canopy flowers as highlights. Birds called, insects whirred and chirped and squeaked, the breeze whispered through the trees around us, but -- other than the sound of our voices -- there was not a single human-made sound to hear. How many places on earth can you say that about?
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